Iceland Part 2 – Into the Unknown
Icelandic Cheat Sheet
- Foss = Waterfall
- Jökull = Glacier
- Vik = Port/Harbor
For the next portion of our trip we decided to venture out away from the city. We took a 3 day guided tour with Iceland Mountain Guides of the Golden Circle and South Coast. It was quite the adventure – made more exciting thanks to those famous Icelandic winds. After the tour we had one more day back in Reykjavik to catch up on anything we missed. And of course, before heading home we made a final stop at the famous Blue Lagoon.
Day 4 – Thursday, December 26
Guided Tour day 1 – Golden Circle
After having missed our bus the day before, we were super paranoid about missing our bus today, because today was the start of a 3 –day tour. We would be leaving the city to explore the Golden Circle and south coast. There was a little bit of back and forth confusion between the bus tour and my travel agent as to where we were actually supposed to be picked up from, but in the end we got on the bus just fine. The tour group was a nice size of 13 plus our guide Sölvi. There were 2 Australian women, a French woman, a couple from India, my family, and another couple from the States with their 11 year old daughter.
Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park was the first stop on our tour. The site was historically significant having been the original location where the clans in Iceland gathered annually to discuss legal matters. Eventually this annual gathering became the Icelandic Parliament (Althing), the oldest parliament still meeting today. The gathering was held here because it has these huge lava walls that served as a natural amphitheater, and today make for great photo-ops. It was formed by the Almannagjá fault, that actually forms at the separation between the European and North American tectonic plates. While walking along the fault we also got to see a small frozen waterfall, Oxararfoss, which was neat in that you could see the water flowing under the ice. (Although it’s a good thing this waterfall was one of the first to see, because compared to some of the others, it was a little underwhelming). The view down the rift however was amazing and thus my favorite part of the park.
Next, Sölvi took us to the Geysir Geothermal Area. This was essentially an area with a large amount of hot springs and several geysers. The two named geysers in the area were Stokkur and the eponymous Geysir. While we did not get to see Geysir launch (probably due to the cold air), Stokkur would blast boiling water high into the air every 7ish minutes. I really enjoyed watching the geyser shoot up, and with the frequency of it, it was nice to get to watch it several times from various angles. After we had our fill of water explosions we warmed ourselves up with some tasty soup from the Geysir Center, which is basically a small mall with shops and restaurants next door.
After seeing the geysers we traveled on to my favorite waterfall from the entire trip, Gullfoss. The scale of this waterfall is just baffling to me. Apparently this valley was nearly dammed, but the environmentalist owner of the land saved it and kept it’s beauty preserved (so yay her!). This waterfall ran through a massive gorge, and all the sides were covered in snow and ice. Looking at the photos posted during the summer, I’m really glad we got to see the valley covered in snow with portions frozen, because I feel like it added a whole new level of beauty. Although it did look like they let you walk a lot closer to it when there isn’t ice on the path.
These three sites we hit up today comprised the Golden Circle which is effectively the “quick hitter highlights tour” that Icelanders have been showing to dignitaries for decades and is now one of the most frequent tours for those visiting Reykjavik. After finishing the highlights tour we had to travel across the south coast of Iceland to our hotel in the southeast for the following two days. We had a few other pit stops on our way out to the hotel, but mostly we stayed cozy and dry as it began to rain and a crazy headwind picked up. Sölvi kept us safe with a steady hand on the steering wheel, and also kept us entertained by telling us stories. Our hotel was Fosshótel Núpar, and it was secluded out in the southeast edge of the country. The hotel was far enough from light pollution that it wasn’t uncommon for the Northern Lights to be visible from their grounds. They even offered a service where they would knock on your door and wake you up if the Northern Lights showed up. Weather was not on our side, however, because both nights we stayed at the hotel it was cloudy and rainy. The hotel had a dinner service, but because it was over the holidays their normal menu was replaced by a “Christmas buffet”. Although it came with a scary price tag, we opted to eat the buffet so we could chat with the others in our group and enjoy a wide variety of local food options. It was very good, but also way too much food, as buffets often are.
Day 5 – Friday, December 27
Guided Tour day 2 – Glaciers
Friday was the worst weather day of the entire trip which provided a certain taste of the intensity of this island nation. The wind and rain from the night before had continued straight through to the next day. So after enjoying the hotel’s well appointed breakfast we boarded the bus in the dark, damp morning heading off to our first site, Jökulsárlón (glacier lagoon). We arrived around 10:00, and while normally it would be starting to get light-ish by that time, the storm seemed to have delayed the daylight by about an hour (exactly what we needed when we already had only about 5-6 hours of usable daylight). Being fools, and having paid for this tour, we ventured out into the raging storm to go look at the iceberg filled lagoon. These icebergs, and the lagoon itself , are formed by the melting of one of the outflow glaciers of Vatnajökul up in the mountains. Mistake number one of the day was staying out too long at the first stop and allowing all of our raingear to wet through making it essentially useless for the rest of the day. Soaking wet, we rode the bus across the bridge from the lagoon to the cooler site of Diamond Beach. The black sand beach was covered in small (and large) pieces of glittering white and blue icebergs which had flowed from the lagoon out to sea and been washed ashore by waves. We took as many pictures as our fingers would let us (along with being thoroughly soaked, it was also freezing). I wish the weather had been a little nicer so we could have appreciated those sites a little more comfortably, but maybe there were more glacier chunks along the shore thanks to the storm – at least telling myself that makes me feel a little better. After leaving the beach we all did our best to dry out during the bus ride to our next stop. Boots were emptied, socks placed on radiators, anything to try to regain some of our insulation and warmth.
The main attraction for the day was our chance to go out on a glacier. We drove over to Iceland Mountain Guide’s base camp in Skaftafell National Park. The rain had taken a momentary break, lightening to more of a misting around this time so we were in good spirits. After a quick lunch of soup, we went to get geared up. They gave everyone crampons, an ice axe, a helmet, and a harness, as well as boots to those whose shoes weren’t up to snuff. In hindsight I really should have requested their boots, because while mine passed their ankle support test, they, along with my socks, were still damp from the morning despite our best efforts to dry them on the bus.
Our glacier hike was on the Falljökull, an outlet glacier of Iceland’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Despite still being a little damp, the start of the hike was surprisingly very pleasant. There was a slight mist in the air, creating an ominous fog around the glacier and surrounding mountains, making it seem even more surreal. It was really neat to see a glacier up close. We started our hike by walking on the moraine (a fancy way to say dirt and rocks at the bottom of the glacier), and it was really cool to realize that while it felt like dirt, we were actually already ON the glacier. The dirt and rocks, moved by the glacier, had been pushed up on top of the ice forming hills, valleys, and a lovely walking surface. After crossing a very temporary looking and feeling bridge with a two person weight limit, we posed in front of the foot of the glacier looking and feeling quite happy, like fools who didn’t know what they were in for. After some hiking through the moraine’s hills we took a detour to visit a small ice cave. Ice caves are formed by the melting glaciers in the summer time, so there are new and different caves every year. Seeing the blue walls of the ice cave was an otherworldly experience, and being out of the wind and rain for a few minutes only helped re-emphasize how terrible the weather was.
Finally, after climbing out of the ice-cave, it was time to put on the crampons and actually walk out on the ice. We gathered in a small circle at the top of a hill so Sölvi could show us how to put them on over our shoes. This was made all the more difficult because it was so cold that I refused to remove my mittens for the process. While we were all standing around not moving, the winds started to pick up, making it feel even colder than it already was. This is around when I had gone into ‘survival mode’ so I didn’t get any more pictures on or of the glacier. To set the mood for what was to come, while we were putting on our crampons there was a moment where a hole, maybe the size of a large cat and as deep as your leg is long, literally formed underneath one of our tour-mates. Luckily no one was hurt, but it was unnerving. After what seemed like forever we all had our cleats strapped on and despite the increasing winds and decreasing temperatures were now determined to go hike on that glacier. We were briefly instructed on how to walk with crampons, mostly being told to walk “cowboy style” to make sure we didn’t accidentally stab our leg with our newly spiked feet. Finally it was time; we made our way over to the clear ice of the glacier.
As soon as we set foot on the glacier we were completely exposed to the storm, there was nothing to block the wind and the colder air above the glacier started to freeze the raindrops into ice pellets. For each step onto the ice it felt like the storm grew stronger and stronger. All my focus was on the ground, stomping my freshly strapped on foot spikes into the ice to make sure I didn’t slip, which took surprisingly less effort than expected. People were starting to shiver, and it was near impossible to hear each other over the howling wind. Everyone was complaining about their fingers in their soaked gloves holding onto the metal axes, while my Achilles Heel was my poor wet feet. Since stepping onto the glacier, my already soaked boots and socks had only gotten colder until it felt like the ice was in my boots and not just under them, forming a perfect layer of chill around my feet. Once all 13 of us and Sölvi had made it onto the ice, he gathered us around him instructing us to huddle together, face in, to better block the wind and keep each other warm. At this point the plan was to hike about 1/4 mile to the first glacial feature, a deep crevasse in the ice, and then turn back. Before setting off again Sölvi turned to the father from the other American couple and asked “How are you doing?” to which the dad, ready to give up, simply said “…Done!” Under incredible mental conflict Sölvi said we would still try to make it and hurry instead. After breaking our huddle to form a single file line we all realized how much our guide’s huddling instruction had helped. The wind felt even stronger, and the constant stopping and starting was clearly starting to wear on some of our tour-mates including Andrew and me. As we made our way up the glacier we started to notice several other groups already on their way back down. I’m not even sure how far we made it on the glacier, maybe 100 steps? Everyone was absolutely freezing. I’m pretty sure every one of us had a thought of ‘How do I know when I have hypothermia? If I feel this terrible how bad do the others feels? Have we gone too far, will I be able to make it back down? Are my toes/fingers turning black?’ but nobody on the tour wanted to be the one to ruin the experience for the others so we put on a tough face and kept going. I’m especially impressed with the 11-year old! After seeing the other tour groups retreating from the glacier in a hurry, Sölvi finally gathered us around to apologize and dejectedly tell us that the winds had gotten too strong and that we would have to turn around, we all let out a massive sigh of relief, not that anyone could tell at the time thanks to the roaring gale.
The winds were so bad that for the way back Sölvi had to pair us up, telling us to link arms so we could make sure we all stayed grounded and didn’t slide down the glacier. He also kindly reminded us that if we drop an axe to just let it go and not try to chase it. That was the longest, coldest walk back to the bus imaginable. Once we were back on the moraine and had removed the crampons, getting wetter and colder by the minute, I kept bouncing on my toes in an attempt to warm them. Meanwhile, Andrew quietly cursed everyone else for being too slow unstrapping their cleats with frozen fingers and soggy gloves, he just wanted to move and get back inside the bus. Before setting off again we were told to turn on our headlamps for visibility and safety. As we hiked our way back over the hills of the moraine we were regularly held up by other groups joining the same trail. By the time we reached the first set of switchbacks on the hike the sun was well and truly setting and it was growing properly dark. All that remained was the sketchy bridge and a short walk to the bus. On our way up the “two at a time” requirement just felt like a minor nuisance, but on the way back down we all swore heavily looking at the line of people waiting to get across to safety. We eventually made it across, looking back to the switchbacks we saw a long line of headlamps still making their way slowly down in the now pitch darkness. Once we finally made it to the bus, the terror of the experience slowly started to turn to fond memory (one of those 2nd order fun activities you know?). We did get to feel like a true Icelander after all.
Once back at the hotel everyone rushed off to their rooms for a hot shower and dry clothes. Andrew and I were the first ones finished and met up with the Australians in the hotel bar for happy hour instead of the Christmas buffet. After everyone else had a time to warm up, dry off, and hang up their drenched clothes they slowly trickled out into the bar to join us. We all drank cheap (for Iceland) beers and relived our harrowing experience on the glacier together and told each other our other stories of peril and fear that we had made it out from. It was quite the bonding experience!
Day 6 – Saturday, December 28
Guided Tour day 3 – Beaches and Waterfalls
After breakfast at the hotel, we set off on the last day of our 3 day excursion with Iceland Mountain Guides. The weather was cooperating a little better than the previous day, but it was still wet out. We first stopped at an old wool factory in Vik, it is mostly an Ice Wear gift shop now, but it also had the requisite café and grocery store to be considered a tourist stop. To make for a cheaper and faster lunch Andrew and I bought a couple “Vegan Viking” sandwiches to-go from the Lava Café. We then made our way in the bus over to Reynisfjara (black sand beach). There was still a slight drizzle as we got off the bus to wander the beach and marvle at the powerful waves. Close to the parking lot there was a cliff wall formed of the hexagon shaped stone pillars the Hallgrimskirkja was modeled after. Several people were seeking shelter in the massive cave, but Sölvi had advised us to stay out due to falling rocks. Plus, when compared to the day before the misty drizzle was downright pleasant. We decided to get away from the crowds and walk along the shore away from the parking lot and café. It was a very serene walk, just feeling like you were out there by yourself and watching the massive waves crash on the shore (this is one of those stay away from the water type beaches, unless of course you are Elsa from Frozen 2 and have magic ice powers because this beach is what inspired that scene). There was a good length break in the rain, giving us a false sense of security encouraging us to venture way out along the shore, so when the rain picked up again, Andrew and I decided to jog back for cover. The rain did stop for good just as we made it back to the parking lot, we were both unfortunately wet but not nearly as bad as the day before.
Andrew and I ate our sandwiches for lunch as the bus made its way to our next destination – the plane wreck on Sólheimasandur. To me this seemed like a very arbitrary stop, I guess the DC3 plane was a US plane that had crashed during WWII. It had immediately been stripped by the army and the hull abandoned, and nowadays has found itself featured in concerts, music videos and movies. Most people visiting the site have to walk about an hour from the parking lot to the crash site across the barren, flat black-sand landscape that surrounds it. Luckily for us, our minibus had exclusive access, so we made the drive in mere minutes. Although I think driving instead of walking may have taken away from the overall experience, we were still thankful to not risk contending with potential rain again.
Our last two stops were massive waterfalls. First, we hit up Skógafoss waterfall. This waterfall was sort of tucked into the cliff walls making it look even more massive than it already was (which is 62 meters if you’re wondering). We were able to go up to the base of it (getting a little damp in the process) and we even saw a rainbow in the spray. We had a short allotted time at this waterfall, but Sölvi said if we were “spry” we should be able to not only go to the base, but also climb the 370 steps to the top. Challenge accepted. The view of the waterfall from the top really wasn’t that impressive, but the view of the surrounding area was (sorry about the water droplets still on my camera from the waterfall spray). The steps to the top were also the start of a major backpacking hike, that if I ever go back in the summer, I would definitely be interested in doing. The last stop was to see Seljalandsfoss waterfall and Gljúfrabúi (the one that dwells in the gorge). These waterfalls were also around 60 meters tall, but they didn’t have the same optical illusion wall framing like Skógafoss did so they didn’t feel as massive. It was too icy for us to walk behind the falls, but we were still able to take the short walk along the Cliffside to see both waterfalls. On the bus ride Solvi had told us a story about trolls, and how just like in the Hobbit, they turn to stone in the sunlight. Seeing the rugged cliffs around these falls, it’s no wonder these troll stories existed, because it didn’t take much imagination to see giant figures in the cliff walls.
We made it back to Reykjavik around 6 pm, so after throwing our still wet clothes from the previous day in the dryer, we went out to Hlemmur, a nearby food hall in an old bus station. After hearing several locals talk about hotdogs, when we saw veggie dogs on one of the menus, Andrew and I decided we couldn’t pass it up, so we opted for the combo. We weren’t exactly sure what came in the combo, so we were pleasantly surprised when it was a candy bar and a beer! Later that night we decided to test our luck one last time to see the Northern Lights, so we redeemed our vouchers and went back out on the boat. This time around both Andrew and I decided to make use of the jumpsuits they provided. As quoted by Andrew “they are so cozy”. While the clouds had cleared enough for us to see some stars (I even identified the one constellation I know – the big dipper) we again did not see the Northern Lights.
Day 7 – Sunday, December 29
Reykjavik
Sunday was our last full day in Iceland. After having seen so much natural beauty, all of us were keen to learn a little bit about Iceland’s history, so we spent the morning at the National Museum of Iceland. We all found the museum to be very informative, they even had a random photo gallery taken by a British tourist in the early 1900s. Some of us were a little faster at museuming, than others, so while some people decided to stick behind and continue reading, Andrew, Beverly, and I opted to go get some ice cream crepes, because that’s Icelandic right?
After having checked the schedule several times, we all met back up at the Hallgrimskirkja church tower so that we could finally get that coveted view from the top. It was well worth waiting for the daylight and the clear skies. Reykjavik is so colorful with that corrugated metal construction they are so fond of, and the views over the city and out to the water are spectacular. We all ate dinner at Glo, a health food restaurant with a veggie protein called oumph that neither Andrew nor I had ever had (tasted similar to jackfruit). After eating, our group split up again, some going to church, and some doing some more shopping – Andrew even got a fun Icelandic hat made by local Icelanders with Icelandic wool from the Hand Knitting Association of Icelandic. Beverly, Richard, Andrew and I met back up in the evening for a trip to the Magic Ice bar. (This is in no way unique to Reykjavik, but I’ve always wanted to go to one so why not go when we’re in the ‘land of ice’?) It was weirdly located in the basement of a gift shop/outdoor outfitter. As expected, it was overpriced and cheesy, but well worth the one visit! The drinks even came in ice glasses.
Throughout the night all of us randomly walked out on the balcony in our apartment in a desperate last attempt to see the Northern Lights, but I guess it just wasn’t meant to be. Maybe they’re just a hoax put on by cold countries in attempt to boost tourism, if that’s the case their scheme is working, because I‘d love to go back and try again.
Day 8 – Monday, December 30
Blue Lagoon
We had one last tourist attraction to see before saying goodbye to Iceland, and that was the famous Blue Lagoon. Our flights home weren’t until 5pm, so we had plenty of time to relax in the milky blue warm waters. It is as gorgeous as the photos. Despite this being a very big tourist attraction we didn’t feel crowded and were able to get some well earned relaxation for our tired muscles. Tickets even included a drink and a silica mud mask. I will say after having read reviews about the water wrecking your hair I made sure to leave conditioner in my hair prior to getting in and to run conditioner through my hair about 5 times afterwards, and it seems to have done the trick.
Overall this was an amazing trip, and I’m glad we got to do it. This was certainly a unique way to spend the holidays with my family and while vacationing for Christmas may not be for everyone we all came away from the trip with good memories and without having gotten into any slow burning family feuds. Huzzah!
Budget
So what did a trip like this cost us?
In case you’re wondering what a trip like this cost us, here’s the logistics. After having read so many complaints about the food being expensive I must have vastly overestimated the cost while budgeting, because I was at about ¼ of the cost I was expecting to spend on food. Other than a few meals, I never felt like things cost too much – but I guess most people probably don’t eat soup and sandwiches for lunch and cook dinner in their apartment?
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